中国与世界，环境危机大家谈 WHERE CHINA AND THE WORLD DISCUSS THE ENVIRONMENT
牦牛奶：一种新的“超级食品”
塔妮娅 • 布兰尼根
2008年10月29日
西藏的牦牛奶比普通牛奶营养更丰富（价格也更高），一家政府投资的中国公司籍此瞄向国内及国际高端市场。塔妮娅·布兰尼根报道。
“牦牛奶的吸引力既在于其营养价值，同时也源于其产地的神秘性。”
一家中国公司开创性地在北京、上海和广州销售经过灭菌处理的西藏牦牛奶，希望它成为这个世界上人口最多的国家的一种新“超级食品”。
一小盒250毫升的“菲凡”（寓意“非凡”）牦牛奶售价24元（3.5美元），是普通牛奶的好几倍。 西藏高原之宝牦牛乳业股份有限公司的丁鹏程说：“牦牛奶天然、绿色、纯净、质优，这是我们的大卖点——我们瞄准的是高端市场。”
在接下来的三年里，这家公司将在政府投资的扶持下，耗资数百万元来打开国内和国际市场。一头牦牛的年产奶量不到300升，而奶牛的产奶量是它的35倍。该公司向西藏农牧民支付的收购价为每升16元或更高，八倍于普通牛奶。
挂靠卫生部的研究机构中国营养学会指出，牦牛奶中氨基酸、 钙和维生素A的含量大大高于普通牛奶。牦牛奶的吸引力既在于其营养价值，同时也源于其产地的神秘性。由于中国最近发生的牛奶污染丑闻，菲凡牦牛奶将经过额外的安全检测。然而，从长远来看，对食品安全的担忧将提升兼具现代卫生标准和无污染、自然养殖形象的产品需求。
次仁卓玛是一位普通的藏族牧民，如今却可以期望打入国内市场。出生于牧民家庭的她在卡惹拉山口附近的陡峭山坡上照看着30头牦牛。
牦牛是藏文化的集中体现：喝茶要加酥油，寺院照明的油灯也用酥油。牛粪用来烧火，牛骨做成珠子。牦牛为卓玛及全家提供了所需的一切。她说：“母牦牛对我们很重要：可以挤奶，做酥油和奶酪，并拿去卖钱。公牦牛可以用于运输。我们可以卖牦牛的皮、肉和毛，通身都能卖钱，然后买粮食等等。”
不过，在距离拉萨160公里的地方，西藏高原之宝牦牛乳业公司正在把这种勉强糊口的生计变为一桩正经的生意。该公司面向国内外的中产家庭，将这种传统食品作为超级食品来推销。在利乐生产线上，牦牛奶被加热至摄氏130º （华氏266°），蒸汽从管口溢出。2003年，公司销售额只有200多万元（近30万美元）；今年进账则有望达到9,000万元（近1,320万美元）。本地市场每天消费三至六吨该公司生产的酸奶。
公司最早的一批牦牛奶是由牧民用碗盆背运过来的，奶里通常还有混有昆虫和牦牛毛；如今，牦牛奶装在清洁的罐子里，通常用摩托车或汽车运输。该公司称，这表明当地收入由此提高了。
但这并未使公司免受有关经济发展的争议。如果没有青藏铁路，进军全国市场几乎是不可能的，而批评者认为，铁路破坏了环境，加速了藏文化的侵蚀。公司110名员工当中，70%是西藏人，但拥有高级职位者寥寥无几。丁鹏程说：“我们公司对西藏员工进行很多的培训，但他们多数没有受过高等教育。”
至少，该公司——及其背后的政府资金投入——正在为长期处于贫困的牧民提供帮助。政府曾经因为强制游牧民定居而遭到严厉批评，但是这项政府投资却在帮助一些人增加收入，而无须放弃他们的传统。这就是官方所说的“有西藏特色的发展”。
而牦牛历来就属于西藏。
卫报新闻媒传有限公司2008年版权所有
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在一个可持续发展成了关键问题的世界里，被标榜为特别有营养或者有益于人体健康的“超级食品”正吸引着越来越多的注意。
地球在变暖，人口在增长，耕地（粮食或燃料？）的使用问题有待解决，供水可能无法保证，转基因生物的价值仍存在争议。
超级食品能够产生重大影响吗？能为更多的人提供更多的营养，并有助于减少医疗保健成本吗？它们（有时候）价格更贵，值得吗？它们会成为少数人的奢侈品，抑或能让很多人受益吗？你会接受新的甚至是奇怪的食品吗？有人会喝牦牛奶吗？
请在论坛中发表你的看法。
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Unless otherwise stated, this work is under Creative Commons' Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 2.0 England & Wales License and 2.5 China License.
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我喝过牦牛奶，味道就象你喝过的最浓的油脂牛奶一样好喝。对“超级食品”神经兮兮的人，我真确地推荐你们一试。
本评论由Ming Li翻译
I've had yak milk before and it tastes like the most lovely thick and creamy cow milk you have ever had. I definitely recommend it to everyone nervous about trying "superfoods."
榨取了西藏宝贵的自然资源之后，藏民到底能获益多少？
How much can Tibetan get when their precious natural resource is milked out?
Translated by Ming Li
一种食品这么多世纪以来养育了世界最遥远一端的人们，现在开始吸吸引更广泛的关注，难道这不奇怪吗？希望养牦牛的牧民获得公平的的价格，也对对市场交易满意，这样没人事后会感到受剥削。
我个人倒是愿意把牦牛奶留给小牦牛，自己还是坚持喝酸奶吧。--马蒂
本评论由Ming Li翻译
Isn't it odd how a food that has sustained people in one of the most remote parts of the world for so many centuries has now begun to interest a wider audience? Let's hope that the yak herders receive a fair price and be happy with the marketing deal, and that no one will end up feeling exploited.
I think I personally will leave the yak milk to baby yaks and stick to yogurt. -- Matty
“一头牦牛的年产奶量不到300升，而奶牛的产奶量是它的35倍。该公司向西藏农牧民支付的收购价为每升16元或更高，八倍于普通牛奶。”我怀疑100年前奶牛的产奶量就和现在的牦牛差不多。客户定制（与非自然饮食）、给牛打荷尔蒙及其他药物加大了奶牛的出奶量。要将牦牛奶变成区域与全球消费的日用消费品需要更广的牧场、更多的净水（这两项中国已是极度短缺）及每头牦牛更高的出奶率。等到所说的这一切发生，牦牛奶只怕已不再是如此“可持续发展”或健康之奶了吧。
www.liquidassetdevelopment.com
本评论由Ming Li翻译
"Yaks produce fewer than 300 litres of milk a year, while cows yield 35 times as much. The company pays Tibetan farmers 16 yuan or more per litre, eight times the price of standard milk."
I doubt that one hundred years ago cows produced as much milk as they do today. Customized (and unnatural diets), hormone injections and other drugs boost dairy cow productivity. To turn yak milk into a regional and global commodity will require much more grazing land, clean water (China is already desperately short of these two items already) and much higher level of milk output per yak.
By the time all of this happens, yak milk will no longer be so "sustainable" or healthy.
Greg
www.liquidassetdevelopment.com
今夏我到青海探访在那从事出色环保工作的藏族朋友。他们拿出了用牦牛奶做成的酸奶让我尝，绝对美味。可就算是他们，要找到这么个当地产的食品也是越来越难了，因为当地的市场已是国产或国外品牌的天下。除非有人能直接与牧民联系，要在当地的市场找到这样传统的本地食品已几不可能。在镇里的超市，实际上所有的东西都产自外地，甚至没有当地的奶产品---牛奶、酸奶是伊利和蒙牛产的（这是两大国产品牌），奶酪是澳洲或新西兰进口的。 我因此想到，与其瞄准高端的海外市场，还不如保护好当地的奶制品市场，则生活于城镇的藏人（数量正在增长）就能如以往那样继续享用牦牛奶，而当地的生产能力则可稳定地扩容。呀，就是有一个问题，这么个提议冒犯了“自由贸易”的条规。鉴于金融崩溃还在进行中，也许也该是时候反思反思这个条规了。 戴尔
本评论由Ming Li翻译
This summer I was in Qinghai province, visiting some Tibetan friends who are doing wonderful environmental work there. They gave me some yogurt from yak milk, which was absolutely delicious. But even for them, such local food is increasingly difficult to find, as the local market is dominated by national or international brands. Unless one has direct connection with some herders, one cannot hardly find such traditional local food in the market. In the supermarket of the town, virtually everything is manufactured somewhere else, even no local dairy product --milk/yogurt by Yili and Mengniu (the two big national brand), cheese imported from Australia/New Zealand.
So I think instead of aiming for high-end market abroad, the better solution is to protect the local dairy market--so the urban Tibetans (which are growing in number) can continue drink yak milk as they used to, while the local manufacture capacity can be steadily built up.
Oops, just one problem, such a proposal violates the "free trade" doctrine. But given the ongoing financial meltdown, maybe it is time to rethink this doctrine as well.
Dale
牦牛奶作为西藏独有的产品,现在被开发出来,进行市场化运作.西方经济学中的比较优势理论,不正是适合于牦牛奶么.
因为出售牦牛奶,牧民提高了收入,有更多的精力和经济基础来继承和发扬西藏的文化和传统;而西藏以外地区的人们也能享用西藏特有的牦牛奶.
一举而两得.
文章中说"牦牛历来属于西藏".那么请问这位大英帝国的记者:茶树历来属于中国,19世纪时英国人将其种子偷运出境,你有没有写文章来替中国打抱不平?
二崬曹
The current developing and marketing of yak milk, an unique Tibetan product, conforms to the Theory of Comparative Advantage in western economics . Thanks to the sale of yak milk, the Tibetan herders boost their incomes, saving more energy and financial resources for promoting traditional Tibetan culture they inherit, while people outside Tibet get the chances to enjoy the unique yak milk. This is indeed a win-win method like killing two birds with one stone. this article claims that "yaks are as Tibetan as they come", then I would like to ask this reporter from Great British Empire a question: did you chivalrously write an article to defend Chinese grievances, in the same way that tea plants are "as Chinese as they come" even though the seeds were spirited out of China by Englishmen in the 19th century? by Er Dongcao
(Translated by Ming Li)
1、担心牦牛奶热销导致牦牛养殖量超过当地环境承载能力；
2、担心发展中当地人民的利益无法保障；
My first concern is that production of yak breeding may go over the carrying capacity of the local environment due to the popular selling of yak milk;
The second concern is that interests of the local people during the development may not be guaranteed.
我去过西藏，喝过农牧民家自产的牦牛奶以及用牦牛奶做的酸奶，确实美味，比蒙牛伊利等大品牌的高端乳制品不知要好多少倍。牦牛奶面向高端市场，牦牛很有可能变成摇钱树，但高原环境承载能力有限，真担心最后高原环境也不健康了，牦牛也不健康了。所以发展这一超级食品，还是要审慎，要科学发展啊！
I've been to Tibet and I've drunk the home-made yak milk of the peasants and herdsmen, and also the yogurt made with yak milk. It's truly delicious - I don't know how many times better than the high-end dairy products of big brands like Mengniu and Yili. Yak milk is geared toward the high-end market and could very plausibly turn into a source of easy money. But the ability of the Tibetan Plateau's environment to make this sustainable is limited; I'm truly worried that ultimately the plateau's environment will turn unhealthy, and also that the yaks themselves will not be healthy. So, in developing this excellent food product, one must really be cautious - it must be developed scientifically!
Translated by Matt Waters
"母牦牛对我们很重要：可以挤奶，做酥油和奶酪，并拿去卖钱。公牦牛可以用于运输。我们可以卖牦牛的皮、肉和毛，通身都能卖钱，然后买粮食等等。"
为什么我们一定要牛毛、牛肉、牛皮？为什么我们一定要杀死牦牛？如果说，真没有想到，连我们的西藏牧民都那么贪婪！
我希望政府能做好引导工作，请不要鼓励大量杀生！
“Female yaks are very important to us: we can get milk, make butter and cheese and get extra money by selling it. For the males, they can be used for transport. We can sell the yak skins, meat and hair. All the parts can be sold, then we buy things like grain.”
We are so bent on getting yak hair, yak meat and yak hide, why? I just can't believe that even Tibetan herders are that greedy! I hope the government will be a good guide. Please, don't incite mass killings.
Translated by Ming Li
如果这个产品是由一家民营公司……
如果这家公司是由藏族人经营……
如果它不是以“进军高端市场”为目的，而是以向本地人提供本地产的优质产品为目的……
如果它在能实现上述“如果”的同时，还能给当地人带来工作、带来较高的收入……
如果的如果，它还能赚钱……
只要是以上的“如果”，我会主动去消费这种产品，哪怕它24元一瓶，哪怕为了购买它我得费劲周折……
ehongbo
If this product is developed by a private-run company...if this company is run by Tibetans...if its goal is not to supply "high-end markets", but high quality local products for local people...if it could bring jobs and high earnings to local people whilst achieving the above "ifs"...and if it could still make a profit...only then will I promptly consume this product, even though it costs 24 yuan a bottle, even though I have to expend great effort to buy it...Ehongbo
Translated by Ming Li
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